Varanasi - An ode to a prehistoric civilization

The leaning temple right beside Manikarnika ghat-Shree Ratneshwar Mahadev

At the time when the world was still finding its footing , writing was yet to be invented , Varanasi existed as a bustling civilization where mankind was blessed enough to thrive with the Gods. Varanasi, a fertile land blessed by the gods themselves nestled amidst the confluence of two rivers Varuna and Assi. It has a distinct identity of its own yet its a colourful assemblage of myriad cultures, languages, traditions, religion and beliefs.Its quite akin to its geographical feature, where the two holy rivers Varuna and Assi merge into the holy Ganges and lose their identity only  to emerge as a phoenix filled with a vigour and energy like no other place I’ve ever visited.

Some call it Kashi - the land of Gods,Some call it Banaras - a name identified with Kashi since the Mughal era .It only signifies the devoutness, the rich history and glory of this ancient city.

It is still an enigma , a box filled with secrets. But, the more you delve into it, you understand that its beauty lies in its untold and unfound stories. This is a place where you could gladly let go of any shred of logic that you have in your bones. The silent intimate communication that one has with God is like a sacred thread that joins the mortal with the divine.

Lord Shiva embodies the very soul of Kashi. The chant of Har Har Mahadev echoes from the very pores of the city. He protects Kashi as Baba Kaal Bhairav and grants liberation from the cycle of rebirth as Baba Vishwanath.By the Vishwanath Dham flows the holy Ganges majestically drowning in her depth all the sins, impurities, confessions and tribulations offered to her by the people. She leaves in her wake a serenity and holiness , the resolute belief in the hearts of the people of Kashi that ‘All is Well’ once you take a dip in Ganga Maiyya - their beloved , life-sustaining mother. 

It is said that no-one remains hungry in Varanasi. Maa Annapurna blesses all the devotees who knock at her door with their hearts filled with desire and devotion. People are fed at the temple complex with free food whenever and from wherever they come. Mother Annapurna’s kitchen is always open to feed her children.

The transition of the Satvik food offered in the temples to the tantalising street food of Varanasi is quite unique. There is no distinction observed in the people lined up in front of Chaat Bhandars,lassiwalas and the Halwaais . The Ordinary and the Creme de la Creme all relish the Varanasi cuisine with the same delight and joy and end their meal with the famed Banarasi Paan. 

The famous Ghats of Banaras stand tall and majestic overlooking the Ganges. They all have their distinct identities and hidden stories to tell.Of all the ghats, the Manikarnika ghat really puts into perspective about life,liberation and death. This ghat never sleeps, it is alight with the funeral pyres of the departed day in and day night. The site of the departed fills you with a great appreciation for life .

Numerous conquestidors have ravaged the land of India but Varanasi a.k.a Kashi a.k.a Banaras remains untouched, unconquered, defended by the Gods themselves .Lord Shiva’s Kashi, The fertile Varanasi and common man’s Banaras all merge into one beautiful cornucopia spirituality, cuisine and culture.The city that links the mortal with the heavenly stands resolute even today preserving its roots and history in the midst of the onslaught of a major cultural shift.

Har Har Mahadev !

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